Engine Bay Wire Tuck

ECU, Wiring, Sensors
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By Skunk
- Thu Dec 25, 2008 6:08 pm #85413 so i seen a lot of people doing wire tuck now, so i want to know when people remove there heater core and run all the wire through the heater core hole, do you still have heat in your car ??

i
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By blockustomz
- Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:21 pm #85855 just finished my wire tuck!!! shit looks amazing.. took me about 12hrs. only had to extend 2 positive + wires for the fuse box.. i took out my heater core and used that hole just like teal did. the easy part was the passenger side.. the hardest was the drivers.. i had to use the hole for the steering box to put some wires through there so i didnt have to extend. i also had to extend the brake reservoir wires but decided not too use those wires no more since i dont need a dumb light for it. to my surprise it didnt set off the brake light when i started the car up.. so u really dont need to extend those wires.. the wires for the whiper i put over the fender since they will never be seen with the plastic and fender on.. i cut alot of corners since i only took apart some of the loom on the passenger and left the clips so i chould use them on the fender instead of the zip ties..

now all i gotta do is move to step 2.. brake, fuel and clutch lines and its off to paint.. there was nothing like starting the car after the tuck. it felt like i did a swap again.. shit looks nice under the hood. just need to get those hard lines out now..
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By Heatherly
- Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:54 pm #85857 I've seen a couple wire tucks before, but never so complete, looks AMAZING!!! :thumb:
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By lopez286
- Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:47 am #86085 men u did some good work on that engine bay :thumb:
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By sparkyej1423
- Tue Oct 20, 2009 12:44 am #151762 Ive got a 94 civic with a ls swap that im doing a wire tuck on and im going to run a fuel line and filter setup like yours but i dont know what fittings and stuff i need. Can you help me?
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By sneepereg
- Sun Nov 29, 2009 3:18 am #158846 im going to do this when i get my b18c in a month or so can i use the rhd harnesses for my coupe??? aahhh im so scare im going to fuck up the wirring i have to find a way to make it work with ac/heat and still make it look at clean as possible i think the hardest part is going to be putting the brake fluid prop valve and fuse box and the other stuff on the inside of the firewall wall.

By the honda guy
- Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:21 am #160349 Hey teal, I just found this site and started reading your diy sections, and I am now on my hands and knee's thanking god lol, but anyway you literally just saved me like 1300 dollars, I was gonna get the cm1 (the works) wire tuck harness with the raychem and mill spec connector from chasebays, but seeing this, it looks so easy now. bro you are the man and I noticed you did this before it got real popular so again thanks and I am probably gonna be hitting you up for some info on these threads.
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By teal_dx
- Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:08 am #160364 the mill spec connector is nice but not cheap. Chase is the OG when it comes to wire tucking, I can't compare my work to his - he goes all out!
I like to think my way is a good compromise of price for the tuck. It uses all the oem connectors, but it pretty cheap to do yourself :thumb:

By vinceg23
- Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:13 am #160377 Before I go out and give this a try. Can you just tuck the fuse box without extending the wires? Can you pretty much just unplug it, push the plugs through then reconnect it? Plus, would it be easier to relocate the battery at the same time too, that way you dont have to extend the batteries wires in the engine bay? You can just run them inside the cabin?

By the honda guy
- Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:38 pm #160442 Nah teal u did a pretty good job bro, look when u did the brake line, after u put the metering valve on the firewall, where did u run the front brake lines? Did u run them from the metering valve, out the heater hose hole then back through the stock location in the strut tower. If u could put some pics of where the lines get ran that would b gret
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