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OEM idle?

Posted:
Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:45 pm
by MilpitasEH2
So here's my situation. My idle is at 910, in order for me to pass the State ref inspection i need to lower it to 750 +/- 50. I cleaned the idle air control valve, idle screw is all the way in and throttle cable should be good. Any other ideas that i should try? MY car has a '95 GSR engine.
Thanks


Posted:
Mon Nov 24, 2014 9:15 pm
by HeikDiesel
Vacuum leaks? Stock ECU?

Posted:
Mon Nov 24, 2014 9:56 pm
by teal_dx

Posted:
Mon Nov 24, 2014 10:03 pm
by MilpitasEH2
As for vacuum leaks, that i'm actually unsure of yet. I'll be sure to check it out. Yes it's a stock ecu.
Yeah i did that as well, it used to be at 1000rpm but it dropped to 900.

Posted:
Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:53 pm
by JUICE
Do they hook up an engine signal or just look at your cluster?

Posted:
Tue Nov 25, 2014 8:54 pm
by suspendedHatch
Is your ignition timing super advanced? Check if your distributor slipped.

Posted:
Thu Nov 27, 2014 8:52 am
by MilpitasEH2
@JUICE that i am actually unsure of. My mechanic told me they hook up an engine signal but i'm worried cause my mechanic fixed the idle problem. Brought it down from the 750-800 range BUT that only works when the car get's turned on after being warmed up. Let's say if i were to drive and then stop in traffic or somewhere my idle would be at the 900 range again.
@suspendedHatch Yeah he fixed the timing, he physically showed me lol. IT was at 16BTDC.

Posted:
Tue Dec 02, 2014 5:21 pm
by brandoff88
your supposed to fully warm your car up before the inspection, makes the cat warm up and do its job properly as well

Posted:
Thu Dec 04, 2014 5:29 am
by MilpitasEH2
@brandoff88 that i am aware of but i'm more concern about the idle. Once it stops raining hard, i'm going to try going to the State Ref as is and go from there. I'll most likely replace the IACV and hopefully it goes down.

Posted:
Thu Dec 11, 2014 7:59 pm
by suspendedHatch
It wont. You have a vacuum leak or over advanced ignition timing. If the idle adjustment screw is all the way in, the engine should barely even run and be prone to stalling. Air is getting in Somewhere.
He was saying your car needs to be at operating temperature because it idles high when it's cold.

Posted:
Mon Dec 22, 2014 8:10 pm
by brandoff88
most common spots I have heard vacuum leaks occurring are the throttle body gasket and intake manifold gaskets id be checking those for sure

Posted:
Mon Dec 22, 2014 8:28 pm
by suspendedHatch
Also check the TPS sensor. TPS's tend to get damaged during engine swaps. When I got my VX it had idle problems. TPS was cracked, not calibrated and hanging by only one bolt without a gasket. I presume the car had an engine swap prior to being put back to stock and sold to me. No prob since I have a box full of sensors including several TPS's. They're common across many Honda engines.
Check the DC voltage at idle and WOT. Idle should be .48 and WOT should be 4.5. There are how to's on how to adjust it.

Posted:
Tue Dec 23, 2014 4:08 am
by MilpitasEH2
Got it fixed guys. Replaced the IACV.

Thanks for the help guys!