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car is running rich

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:43 am
by 93_hatch
i have a z6 motor in my hatch. i adjusted the fitv and now the car is running richer. im only getting maybe 20mpg. i am wondering how to lean out my car. any help?

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 1:19 am
by teal_dx
is your check engine light on?

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:25 am
by 93_hatch
No no light or anything. also its ideling high now. i have cleaned my iacv and adjusted the hiacv or watever and its still ideling high just no more hunting. maybe a vac leak?? and on top of all this my car got backed into to today :( and i have rear quarter damage and a busted tail light.....

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 5:00 am
by ej2rey
Probably the vaccume line that runs to your stock fuel preasure reg got disconnected or its bad and its leaking. That porbably giving you the high rev and the reason you're running rich.

Feel for you on the quater panel damage btw.

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:00 pm
by teal_dx
Some times an o2 sensor can be on its way out, but not bad enough to throw a CEL yet. A vac leak will give you a bouncy idle that revs up and down.

PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:49 pm
by ej2rey
teal_dx wrote:Some times an o2 sensor can be on its way out, but not bad enough to throw a CEL yet. A vac leak will give you a bouncy idle that revs up and down.

True that on the o2.
But everytime I've had a vaccume leak I get a high steady rev. The only time I've had a bouncing rev is when my ficv went bad.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:26 am
by 93_hatch
ya i dont think i have a vac leak after looking into that today. how can i check my o2 sensor?

PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 3:41 am
by Faded_Milano
Oh god, rear quarter panel damage SUCKS

PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 4:04 am
by ej2rey
93_hatch wrote:ya i dont think i have a vac leak after looking into that today. how can i check my o2 sensor?

Before testing always make sure the car is fully warmed up and at normal operating temperature.

Hope this helps.


Testing With A Digital Mulitmeter:

Connect the voltmeter between the O 2 sensor wire and ground.
Backprobe the connector near the O 2 sensor to connect the voltmeter to the sensor signal wire. If possible, avoid probing through the insulation to connect a meter to the wire.
With the engine idling, the sensor voltage should be cycling from low voltage to high voltage. The signal from most O 2 sensors varies between 0 and 1 volt.
If the voltage is continually high, the air/fuel ratio may be rich or the sensor may be contaminated by RTV sealant, antifreeze, or lead from leaded gasoline.
When the O 2 sensor voltage is continually low, the air/fuel ratio may be lean, the sensor may be defective, or the wire between the sensor and the computer may have a high-resistance problem.
If the O 2 sensor voltage signal remains in a mid-range position, the computer may be in open loop or the sensor may be defective.

Testing ground:

If a defect in the O 2 sensor signal wire is suspected, backprobe the sensor signal wire at the computer and connect a digital voltmeter from the signal wire to ground with the engine idling.
The difference between the voltage readings at the sensor and at the computer should not exceed the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. A typical specification for voltage drop across the average sensor wire is 0.02 volt.
Now check the sensor's ground.
With the engine idling, connect the voltmeter from the sensor case to the sensor ground wire on the computer. Typically, the maximum allowable voltage drop across the sensor ground circuit is 0.02 volt.
Always use the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. If the voltage drop across the sensor ground exceeds specifications, repair the ground wire or the sensor ground in the exhaust manifold.

Testing o2 heater:

To test the heater circuit, disconnect the O 2 sensor connector and connect a voltmeter between the heater voltage supply wire and ground.
With the ignition switch on, 12 volts should be supplied on this wire. If the voltage is less than 12 volts, repair the fuse in this voltage supply wire or the wire itself.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 4:19 am
by ej2rey
Aight I tried editing my post up there^^^ but for sum reason it won't let me.

All I wanted to say was make sure you used an digital voltimeter if you're going to do the test. An analog meter will damage the o2.

Also I think it would be easier if you just replace the o2. It doesn't hurt to replace it once every or so few month.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:50 am
by 93_hatch
ok thanks. ya i think im just going to replace it sinse idk when the last time it was changed.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 2:17 pm
by ej2rey
93_hatch wrote:ok thanks. ya i think im just going to replace it sinse idk when the last time it was changed.

Good call.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:04 pm
by QBANBOY407
any code?

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:02 pm
by ej2rey
QBANBOY407 wrote:any code?

Reading owned you brotha lol

PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 10:38 pm
by 95projektvic
if the sensor is bad or even the fuse then you should be throwing a code.