Chance wrote:I smoke my own meat!
lulz...
- Sat Jan 24, 2009 7:39 pm
#92159
you people are mental and rich!
lulz...
lulz...
UPDATE PLEASE.. cant wait for it to be finish
- Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:53 am
#92808
i hope you are patient.......builds like this take forever......
b18c1mien wrote::x UPDATE PLEASE.. cant wait for it to be finish
i hope you are patient.......builds like this take forever......
- Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:17 pm
#95014
Update February 8
Started today with the rear suspension setup. Have given it a lot of thought and came up with a way to make my porsche G50 transmission fit and keep the construction light. But at the same time cut out the center section to make room for the tranny. At the same time the lower control arm mounting points on the chassis needed to be moved backwards a little over an inch because the AWD trailing arms have these mounting points further back to make room for the CV-joint. So I re-designed the whole rear setup.
Began with building up sections of the rear cage mounting points and from there on creating a structure to give strength to the rear mounting points and as a base for the rear part of the cage.
Started with 2 pieces of 70mm tube, pressed to an oval shape and welded to the strut towers:
Then connected both with a 40mm tube to form a strut brace:
Then I extended the tubing to the end of both rear oem beams:
Then I started to remove the 2 suspension stubs in order to place them more to the rear and box them in for strength.
Before modification:
After the modification:
Then mocked up both rear boxed up mounting points with the oem lower tie bar installed, this tie-bar still fits even with the porsche G50 installed:
Then welded them in place and started re-inforcing them with tubing. These last pictures are of the situation how I ended today, It's about halfway finished and needs some more boxing in/detailing/and cleaning up..:
Started today with the rear suspension setup. Have given it a lot of thought and came up with a way to make my porsche G50 transmission fit and keep the construction light. But at the same time cut out the center section to make room for the tranny. At the same time the lower control arm mounting points on the chassis needed to be moved backwards a little over an inch because the AWD trailing arms have these mounting points further back to make room for the CV-joint. So I re-designed the whole rear setup.
Began with building up sections of the rear cage mounting points and from there on creating a structure to give strength to the rear mounting points and as a base for the rear part of the cage.
Started with 2 pieces of 70mm tube, pressed to an oval shape and welded to the strut towers:
Then connected both with a 40mm tube to form a strut brace:
Then I extended the tubing to the end of both rear oem beams:
Then I started to remove the 2 suspension stubs in order to place them more to the rear and box them in for strength.
Before modification:
After the modification:
Then mocked up both rear boxed up mounting points with the oem lower tie bar installed, this tie-bar still fits even with the porsche G50 installed:
Then welded them in place and started re-inforcing them with tubing. These last pictures are of the situation how I ended today, It's about halfway finished and needs some more boxing in/detailing/and cleaning up..:
- Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:39 pm
#95024
This is mega!
94' civic eg B16a2 swapped motor
94' civic eg B16a2 turbo'd 340whp 285ftlb torque
94' civic eg B16a2 Built n/a 200bhp 130ftlb torque
94' civic eg B18c-R SOLD
96' Integra type R build SOLD
02' EP3 civic type R build in progress
94' civic eg B16a2 turbo'd 340whp 285ftlb torque
94' civic eg B16a2 Built n/a 200bhp 130ftlb torque
94' civic eg B18c-R SOLD
96' Integra type R build SOLD
02' EP3 civic type R build in progress
- Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:10 pm
#95682
sump will be a dry sump for clearance...
- Wed Feb 11, 2009 3:42 pm
#95706
How do you measure everything to be sure that all angles are precise and square? And what kind of welder do you have?
Awesome work as always
Awesome work as always
Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
- Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:44 pm
#95744
I take fixed reference points on the chassis, now remember that no chassis is straight and no chassis is the same, but if you keep it referenced to the chassis points it's built on, you will be ok, a few mm off is not an issue, if I measure unmodified chassis' then I also see mm's of difference in components. and sometimes it needs a few mm's off to be straight for the eye/bubble, because the chassis is off a little.
Also remember that the rear suspension setup is changeable and setteable by camber/toe in etc. but all this I've built is level and straight by bubble and re-measured, it had a difference of 3mm between the left and right lca point, but changing it to zero gave me a worse offset in another plain, which was not acceptable to me.. you cannot see the offset, just by measuring...you find out
I use a professional mig welder that was built in The Netherlands by Lasair.
teal_dx wrote:How do you measure everything to be sure that all angles are precise and square? And what kind of welder do you have?
Awesome work as always
I take fixed reference points on the chassis, now remember that no chassis is straight and no chassis is the same, but if you keep it referenced to the chassis points it's built on, you will be ok, a few mm off is not an issue, if I measure unmodified chassis' then I also see mm's of difference in components. and sometimes it needs a few mm's off to be straight for the eye/bubble, because the chassis is off a little.
Also remember that the rear suspension setup is changeable and setteable by camber/toe in etc. but all this I've built is level and straight by bubble and re-measured, it had a difference of 3mm between the left and right lca point, but changing it to zero gave me a worse offset in another plain, which was not acceptable to me.. you cannot see the offset, just by measuring...you find out
I use a professional mig welder that was built in The Netherlands by Lasair.
