Civic EG

What oil filter and oil do you guys recommend ?

I used fram without a problem but now am going to switch to oem Honda filters

go for hamp filters with hose clips around them to prevent expansion at high rpms as recommended by spoons own mr Ichishima, and hondas recommended oil 10w40

stubrun wrote:go for hamp filters with hose clips around them to prevent expansion at high rpms as recommended by spoons own mr Ichishima, and hondas recommended oil 10w40

definately for that steet racing action he will be doing

BILLYhoang wrote:What oil filter and oil do you guys recommend ?

You should try SCHAEFFERS oil! not to many people know about it, but it's a really good oil. The guy who sells it to our shop did a demonstration, he tested it agianst Mobil one and it beat Mobil one.

Here is the link
http://www.schaefferoil.com/

I used to run the oem honda s2000 filter, but now i only run the K&N hp1004. Gave me a 20psi boost in oil pressure over the s2k filter.

i use k&n filters with mobile 1 oil

i have had great luck with the purolator pure one filters they carry better oil pressure than the frams, mobil 1 and k&n filters are great too.... the frams paper element is such a good filter material, that it can be on the restrictive side (due to its high filteration rate makes it restrictive), ive seen up to 20 psi oil pressure drop with frams on race engines....

as far as oil,
conventional i like valvoline, castrol gtx, or mobil clean 5000
synthetic i use mobil one or castrol syntec
and i highly recomend the Lucas oil stabilizer, i use it in everything, i use the original Lucas with convetional oil, and the synthetic Lucas with synthetic oil. its expensive but it works, ive torn down v8 drag engines for end of season freshen ups, and you can feel the sticky lucas caoted every ounce of the inside of the engine. and the lucas normally gives you like 10 extra psi oil pressure

just stay away from pennsoil or quaterstate!!!!

K and N hp1004 and royal purple 5w30 is what im gonna be putting in my fresh build but in other cars i have still used K and N and Castrol gtx

Oil wise I'd go with Valveoline VR-1 aka Valvoline 20w50. I always run this in turbo cars. The thicker oil is better in the summer heat conditions with oil thinning, and then trying to push past the seals in the turbo.

I pick up a jug of Castrol Syntec 5W30 whenever it's on sale at Canadian Tire. I swear by it. I've never been picky about the oil filter I use, though I might look at some suggestions here. It's usually a high-mileage synthetic oil filter by Fram.

flyinryan122 wrote:Oil wise I'd go with Valveoline VR-1 aka Valvoline 20w50. I always run this in turbo cars. The thicker oil is better in the summer heat conditions with oil thinning, and then trying to push past the seals in the turbo.

i cheat and put one 20/50 in with my 10/30 mixture lol

forcefedEG wrote:

flyinryan122 wrote:Oil wise I'd go with Valveoline VR-1 aka Valvoline 20w50. I always run this in turbo cars. The thicker oil is better in the summer heat conditions with oil thinning, and then trying to push past the seals in the turbo.

i cheat and put one 20/50 in with my 10/30 mixture lol

If you're using a synthetic oil with a viscosity rating of 20W-50, you're crazy. Castrol makes a 5W-50 synthetic that does the exact same thing as the 20W-50, but with a greater temperature range. At ambient temperature, the 20W-50 acts as a straight SAE20 weight oil and as the temperature of the oil goes up, the viscocity rating increases to roughly that of a straight SAE50 weight oil. The benefit of using a 5W-50 is the greatly increased temperature range. And it won't push past the oil seals in your turbo if it's sealed properly. Ford recommends the Castrol Syntec 5W-50 for the new supercharged GT500 becaust the engine runs so damn hot. VW/Audi and BMW recomment 0W-40 because the tolerances in the engines are so tight, that any thicker and you're not lubricating the parts fully causing premature wear. The thinner the oil is at cold startup, the faster the oil gets to the moving parts.

I saw up towards the top someone posted that Honda recommends 10-40. They actually recommended 5W-30 in a brand new engine. Granted, most of our engines are not exactly new, so you might need a thicker oil, but Honda recommended 5W-30 straight out of the factory. The only vehicle Honda recommended 10W-30 (as far as I know) is the S2000 for some reason unbeknownst to me.

I also saw that someone is using the Lucas oil stabilizer and that it boosts that person's oil pressure by 10psi. Yeah, it boosts the pressure. What you may or may not know is that, because the stabilizer is so thick, it's making the oil pump work harder thus causing it to wear out prematurely...seems we have found a trend with thicker oils...

The single best conventional oil on the market (in my PERSONAL opinion) is Valvoline. I've used nothing but Valvoline in all of the vehicles I've ever owned/changed the oil in. There are countless oil reviews/tests online that will back my opinion up, and there are countless reviews/tests that will dispute my opinion. Someone else said that you should stay away from Pennzoil and Quaker State. Yes. Not good oil. And whatever you do, don't use the house brand oil...it's cheap for a reason...

FILTERS! Ah, the subject of the original post...

K&N is the best, IMO. Fram is good for a calmly driven daily driver. STP is the equvalent of screwing a tin can on to your engine. WIX is actually a better filtering media than the K&N, but it flows significantly less than the K&N. Bosch is a bad ass filter for the cost (roughly half of the K&N depending on the store); synthetic filtering media for high flow rates AND excellent filtering capacity. Again, stay away from the house brand filters.

When breaking in an engine, you can use the house brand oil so long as it says SAE30wt NON-DETERGENT. It's literally as close to crude oil as you can feasibly put in an internal combustion engine. You can also use whatever filter you want. I used the Bosch last time I broke in an engine, but it's not a huge deal unless you're paranoid to the max about getting tiny shavings of metal roughly 20 microns in diameter (to put that into perspective, 1 millimeter = one thousand, yes 1,000 microns) being pushed around through your oil passages. That happens no matter what...

Hope that helps, Mr. OP man.

That One Dude wrote:

forcefedEG wrote:

flyinryan122 wrote:Oil wise I'd go with Valveoline VR-1 aka Valvoline 20w50. I always run this in turbo cars. The thicker oil is better in the summer heat conditions with oil thinning, and then trying to push past the seals in the turbo.

i cheat and put one 20/50 in with my 10/30 mixture lol

If you're using a synthetic oil with a viscosity rating of 20W-50, you're crazy. Castrol makes a 5W-50 synthetic that does the exact same thing as the 20W-50, but with a greater temperature range. At ambient temperature, the 20W-50 acts as a straight SAE20 weight oil and as the temperature of the oil goes up, the viscocity rating increases to roughly that of a straight SAE50 weight oil. The benefit of using a 5W-50 is the greatly increased temperature range. And it won't push past the oil seals in your turbo if it's sealed properly. Ford recommends the Castrol Syntec 5W-50 for the new supercharged GT500 becaust the engine runs so damn hot. VW/Audi and BMW recomment 0W-40 because the tolerances in the engines are so tight, that any thicker and you're not lubricating the parts fully causing premature wear. The thinner the oil is at cold startup, the faster the oil gets to the moving parts.

I saw up towards the top someone posted that Honda recommends 10-40. They actually recommended 5W-30 in a brand new engine. Granted, most of our engines are not exactly new, so you might need a thicker oil, but Honda recommended 5W-30 straight out of the factory. The only vehicle Honda recommended 10W-30 (as far as I know) is the S2000 for some reason unbeknownst to me.

I also saw that someone is using the Lucas oil stabilizer and that it boosts that person's oil pressure by 10psi. Yeah, it boosts the pressure. What you may or may not know is that, because the stabilizer is so thick, it's making the oil pump work harder thus causing it to wear out prematurely...seems we have found a trend with thicker oils...

The single best conventional oil on the market (in my PERSONAL opinion) is Valvoline. I've used nothing but Valvoline in all of the vehicles I've ever owned/changed the oil in. There are countless oil reviews/tests online that will back my opinion up, and there are countless reviews/tests that will dispute my opinion. Someone else said that you should stay away from Pennzoil and Quaker State. Yes. Not good oil. And whatever you do, don't use the house brand oil...it's cheap for a reason...

FILTERS! Ah, the subject of the original post...

K&N is the best, IMO. Fram is good for a calmly driven daily driver. STP is the equvalent of screwing a tin can on to your engine. WIX is actually a better filtering media than the K&N, but it flows significantly less than the K&N. Bosch is a bad ass filter for the cost (roughly half of the K&N depending on the store); synthetic filtering media for high flow rates AND excellent filtering capacity. Again, stay away from the house brand filters.

When breaking in an engine, you can use the house brand oil so long as it says SAE30wt NON-DETERGENT. It's literally as close to crude oil as you can feasibly put in an internal combustion engine. You can also use whatever filter you want. I used the Bosch last time I broke in an engine, but it's not a huge deal unless you're paranoid to the max about getting tiny shavings of metal roughly 20 microns in diameter (to put that into perspective, 1 millimeter = one thousand, yes 1,000 microns) being pushed around through your oil passages. That happens no matter what...

Hope that helps, Mr. OP man.

When i said 20w50, i was meaning conventional oil. no synthetic shit here, VR1 is cheap. and seeing as how i go through a lot of it, it makes things nice. The perpose of 20w50 is to hepl out with oil thinning due to hot weather in the summer and a hot engine. I've always used oem honda s2k filters, but after finding the k&n hp1004 bumps oil pressure about 20psi more than the s2k, i made the switch.

I still wouldn't run anything more than 10W-40. Even in the summer in a turbo'd engine...