Civic EG

Im getting a Rear disc brake converison off a integra.... im just wondering what is it that i need.... can someone give me a list please...

thanks

you need to get steel brake lines and slotted rotors and some hawk pads.

AH!.. my heart stopped thinking of the price for that stuff

Josiah wrote:you need to get steel brake lines and slotted rotors and some hawk pads.

full trailing arm assembly
calipers
pads
e-brake line cables
1" or 15/16th master cylinder with booster
Proportioning valve

quite a lot to be honest also need your front calipers and pads
and steel brake lines like somebody said above. fairly expensive stuff

Why does no one just answer him?

He doesnt need anything other than

Rear trailing arm with Rotors and calipurs
E brake cables and You might want to get the Rubber Lines from the Teg too.


Brakes will work better with the correct proportioning valve a 40/40 from a 92-93 Si, or any car with rear disc and no abs.

You do not need to get stainless steel braided lines unless you want them.
You do not need a new master cylinder
You do not need new front brakes

If he hasn't got bigger brakes up front already is what I meant.
sorry about that

I too am getting ready for this swap on my 93 hatch. My list is pretty involved considering I am doing my full suspension when I do my brakes. As far as the brakes go, it depends on what you are doing. My list for brakes is as follows:

All parts are from a 94-01 Integra - NOTE: all integra brake components in 94-01 are the same(except ITR). The only difference is ABS and NON. No difference in size or capability.

RS M/C & Booster (Non ABS - Bolts right up, no modifying lines)
Front - spindles, hub, rotor, calipers.
Rear - trailing arm, hub, rotor, calipers, brake cable
New Rotors
Stainless lines
ATE Superblue Synthetic fluid
Hawk HP pads

Like building an engine or anything else, there is always a degree of how far you need to go for what the vehicle will be doing. If you just want disc brakes then Greasedmonkey pretty much summed it up.

If you plan on doing some serious road racing then go ahead and get the slotted/drilled rotors. For the street/daily driving, you will never need them and they will wear your pads much quicker. It is a common misconception that drilled/slotted rotors are needed... I do recommend stainless braided lines and a quality synthetic brake fluid. The stainless lines will help pedal feel but they are of course not required. Flushing the brake fluid with new fluid is a good idea if it hasn't been done for a few years. Over time fluid will absorb moisture and also attribute to a spongy feeling in the pedal. Synthetic fluid is also not required, it will help with fade under repeated breaking. It has a much higher boiling point when brakes heat up.

As Blake said, the parts you NEED are trailing arms with discs and calipers, the handbrake cables and the rubber flexy hoses, these are the only parts that are different between a rear disc and a read drum car

You dont NEED a new master cylinder, front brakes or proportioning valve

you actually dont even need the trailing arm. If you have the parts there are torqs bolts you can remove to replace it all. I didnt feel like prying my energy suspension bushing out so i just pulled everything off the arm =D make sure if youyr doing it this way you have ALL the parts. There is a certain plate that makes a big difference....starts hunting for pics.

VegasCivic wrote:you actually dont even need the trailing arm. If you have the parts there are torqs bolts you can remove to replace it all. I didnt feel like prying my energy suspension bushing out so i just pulled everything off the arm =D make sure if youyr doing it this way you have ALL the parts. There is a certain plate that makes a big difference....starts hunting for pics.

those torx bolts are really stuck on! I had a huge trouble removing them without an impact gun. Careful not to strip them!

It's actually a lot easier to swap the full trailing arm.


-Trailing arm with all the brake lines to the chassis.

Parking Brake cables : EG Si cables is the bolt on one, Integras will be stretched a little.


that is all that is really necessary to get rear disc brakes. If you DO want the most OPTIMAL setup, you can get the larger discs in the front with 4040 prop valve and a new master cylinder/booster to go with it.

Graham wrote:As Blake said, the parts you NEED are trailing arms with discs and calipers, the handbrake cables and the rubber flexy hoses, these are the only parts that are different between a rear disc and a read drum car

You dont NEED a new master cylinder, front brakes or proportioning valve

I actually didn't know that, I was always told those parts were a must have.
thanks for pointing that one out

Yeah i was told the same thing, its only once you've done it you realise half the stuff you were told was a must you didnt actually need

Same with coilovers, i was getting told id need all these camber arms and LCAs just to fit them...

LowTEC-Derbo wrote:
those torx bolts are really stuck on! I had a huge trouble removing them without an impact gun. Careful not to strip them!

I couldnt do it with an impact soooo I used a 3foot breaker bar and chemicals instead