Civic EG

Its been a while since I posted but I am still having problems. I have a 92 dx hatch. The car has a d16z6 and si tranny. I have trouble starting the car, it floods as soon as I turn the key on. Everybody told me to change the ecu, so I did and to my amazement it started easier. The car ran great for forty miles then blam same problems won't start, and no matter how long I drive it won't come out of high idle and when I give it gas it has a nasty hesitation. Now this is where it gets interesting, I pulled the hazard fuse and started it and she ran perfect until forty miles than back to high idle and stumble. WTF any input would be greatly appreciated. Oh I put a h22 ecu in. I had a virgin p28 in it before and same problem.

what motor/ wiring/mods have you done, and was it running good before changing ecus around?

what all is done to it and also what all have you check so far?

So it has a d16z6 engine. Ram air intake, header, Catback 2.25 to a free flowing exhaust (still has cat). Full harness, chassis and engine has been replaced due to someone cutting engine harness to steal the supercharger. Car is not supercharged any more. And yes it had the same problems before I changed the ecu that is why I changed it someone told me it sounded like the ecu. I think it is a sensor I just don't know what sensor would cause the problems.I have changed the map, iat, fpr, injecters, fuel relief, dizzy, cap, rotor plugs, wires, and ecu (four ecu's) and iac valve. Oh yeah I put ngk plugs eccel wires and Mr Gasket cap and rotor. The only thing I haven't changed is the throttle body and vtec solonoid. I have checked and double checked all the ground wires, and I haven't messed with the charcoal canister.

Has it ever given you a check engine light? (and are you sure the light is working?)

No check engine light and yes it works it comes on for a second when I turn on the ignition

High idle doesn't sound like ECU or a sensor... who have you been talking to? Put the P28 back in.

High idle would be from a vacuum leak or from over advanced ignition timing.

Make sure all your hoses are connected properly. You can't check ignition timing with it running like that, but you can put the distributor in the middle position (jumper the diagnostic plug near the ECU first).

There are several tricks to look for vacuum leaks. One is to squirt around with throttle body cleaner. If it is drawn in, it will affect how the engine is running. The other is to generate smoke and see if it is being pushed or pulled by leaking gaskets etc.

I have sprayed carb cleaner before and no change. It doesn't matter what ecu I put in it. As soon as it registers the moniters it runs like shit. I could put the p28 back in but it won'tchange anything. And I have jumped the plug to check timing just to find out it is dead on.

How can it be dead on if the RPMs are high?

How high are the RPM's?

Has the throttle body adjustment screw been messed with? Try tightening it down.

I'm leaning toward a sensor too now (or its wiring). Can't be IAT, or O2. Not likely to be coolant temp. These sensors affect fuel delivery but they're limited in how far they can change it. It could be the TPS or MAP. IACV could be stuck open or leaking. And when I mention the sensor I also mean the wiring.

You'll need a digital volt meter and the Helms manual (download from hondahookup).

I am also leaving towards tps but I don't the money to buy one if it isn't the problem.

that's what I would suggest it may be your tps went tits up and its registering that the throttle is pressed down further than idle..look on ebay they should have some cheapo ones or even used ones

also just thought, you didn't swtich the tps and map plugs did ya, try swapping them around and see if that helps.. I know for sure there's two sensors with the same plug and I believe its those ones like I said try swapping em and see what happens

I checked the color of the wires and they are correct not backwards and I also checked placement on the connector and that is right also

well it seems to be down the the tps, id swap it out and go from there, I cant really think of anything else that would cause that...I hope it works out for you and good luck!

Don't swap the TPS or any part for that matter until you test it and verify that it's bad.

Get a voltmeter, download the Helms from hondahookup, and follow the testing procedure.

For the record I highly doubt it's the TPS.