- Wed Dec 23, 2009 1:59 am
#163491
tonight i checked all the grounds sanded them down, changed 3 different ecus .the cel stays on all the time when key is in the on position .all the lights work in the car and out sun roof works also. just no power to the main relay still and i dont have and fire to the dizzy it is good as i put it on my friends car and it ran fine. Running out of ideas please help lol
- Tue Dec 29, 2009 1:44 am
#164475
just to be sure, have you checked every one of your fuses? Under dash and under hood?
Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum! 
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
- Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:30 pm
#168418
This is actually a very common problem after wire tucks.... sadly all forums I've found so far have no conclusion. I have the same problem in mine. Every single scenario I've found around the forums have the same exact problems:
Solid CEL even when jumped
No fuel pump Priming
Car won't start
Multiple ECUs/PGM-FI Relays changed out yield only the same results.
All harnesses claim to be double to triple checked without any problems seen.
All grounds claim to be on
If you have found your problem and fixed it please post it up so i can get mine fixed finally. I've been trouble shooting for hours each night and everything seems fine. Still.... same deal
Solid CEL even when jumped
No fuel pump Priming
Car won't start
Multiple ECUs/PGM-FI Relays changed out yield only the same results.
All harnesses claim to be double to triple checked without any problems seen.
All grounds claim to be on
If you have found your problem and fixed it please post it up so i can get mine fixed finally. I've been trouble shooting for hours each night and everything seems fine. Still.... same deal
- Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:01 am
#168550
well man your outa luck cause im in the same boat . after 4 weeks of checking everything i pulled my zc motor cause it has no compression and droping my z6 back in as for the problem . i was thinking it may be the engine harrness. and i still have one more main harness plug to check. so if u have any ideas that would be great also lol. i will know more this weekend i will post my updates. what all did u check on yours?
Rigginit wrote:This is actually a very common problem after wire tucks.... sadly all forums I've found so far have no conclusion. I have the same problem in mine. Every single scenario I've found around the forums have the same exact problems:
Solid CEL even when jumped
No fuel pump Priming
Car won't start
Multiple ECUs/PGM-FI Relays changed out yield only the same results.
All harnesses claim to be double to triple checked without any problems seen.
All grounds claim to be on
If you have found your problem and fixed it please post it up so i can get mine fixed finally. I've been trouble shooting for hours each night and everything seems fine. Still.... same deal
well man your outa luck cause im in the same boat . after 4 weeks of checking everything i pulled my zc motor cause it has no compression and droping my z6 back in as for the problem . i was thinking it may be the engine harrness. and i still have one more main harness plug to check. so if u have any ideas that would be great also lol. i will know more this weekend i will post my updates. what all did u check on yours?
- Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:10 am
#168564
After all week and heavy into researching and testing and countless trips from house to garage .... i think I might know what it is. I took the loom and the tape off of my harness and separated the Shielded wires from the rest as much as possible. Reinstalled it like that just to test(it looks ugly at the moment haha)and BAM car started, ECU lights out, car starts and runs like the champ it used to be. Try this and let me know if it works for you cause there are SOOO many threads with this problem and no one has an answer.
This would actually explain it due to the fact you cant use a Multimeter or test light etc to check for signal noise in other wires
Im still going to tinker with it and be moving wires around etc to try and confirm this is the only reason that caused it
I've undone the loom and tape etc 4 times now checking for breaks and frays etc. The only thing I haven't done until tonight was separate the wires and thats looking like the solution. Also of the 2 Large Engine harness plugs that meet the cabin harness... make sure you have the right ones plugged up, they are identical in shape and fit.
As for what i checked:
ECU pins (Helms manual troubleshoot line up)
3 working ECUs
Main Relay pins
Harness/Plugs/Pins in cabin AND motor harness.
Dizzy cap rotor plugs and wires
Fuel pump at the pump and wiring between that and the Relay
Tried Disconnecting MAP and ECU etc to see if CEL went out
Tried the whole switch plugs around (MAP-TPS) (IAT-IACV) etc.
This would actually explain it due to the fact you cant use a Multimeter or test light etc to check for signal noise in other wires
Im still going to tinker with it and be moving wires around etc to try and confirm this is the only reason that caused it
I've undone the loom and tape etc 4 times now checking for breaks and frays etc. The only thing I haven't done until tonight was separate the wires and thats looking like the solution. Also of the 2 Large Engine harness plugs that meet the cabin harness... make sure you have the right ones plugged up, they are identical in shape and fit.
As for what i checked:
ECU pins (Helms manual troubleshoot line up)
3 working ECUs
Main Relay pins
Harness/Plugs/Pins in cabin AND motor harness.
Dizzy cap rotor plugs and wires
Fuel pump at the pump and wiring between that and the Relay
Tried Disconnecting MAP and ECU etc to see if CEL went out
Tried the whole switch plugs around (MAP-TPS) (IAT-IACV) etc.
- Fri Jan 15, 2010 7:40 pm
#168740
So far that's appearing to be what my problem was... I'm still moving the harness around and relocating wires (moving them over or under thermostat etc) to see if it acts up. Then when i get it all loomed back together if it's good to go then that had to be what it was
- Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:54 pm
#168751
sweet deal man let me know if anything happens your a great help i read the thread you posted on honda tech today u tried way more then i did i am just hoping it works out to be the same problem. y do u think this would make everything go all facked? like mess up the single to main relay and fire? also did u have no batterie light and oil pressure light when u turned the key ahead cause i dont?? also when turning over the more the ebrake light flickers . is that a caution light also? i just noticed all theses lights yesterday i was so focused on the CEL. if u could help me in anyway that would be great thanks
- Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:36 am
#168965
I'm not really too sure on which lights did what. I don't remember which lights were on due to being focused on CEL as you say haha. sorry. The brake light shouldn't flicker as far as i know. It's not and indicator.
Which wires, if any, did you cut to extend/shorten?This includes cabin harness. Ill help you get through yours the same way i went through mine.
Use the H-T thread to go through the ECU and main relay checks JUST TO BE SURE. i know changing them out with working known ones rules them out... but follow the conversation me and Ron had with an actual meter (try not a test light like i had to for the explained reasons in that thread). You may find that a 12v power source is only reading a 2 or 6 or something keeping it from doing what it should. Then only an Ohm meter to check continuity between the ECU and the ends of the cabin harness will be all you have to worry about. If that all checks good... it can only be your engine harness (or something in the engine bay)
Which wires, if any, did you cut to extend/shorten?This includes cabin harness. Ill help you get through yours the same way i went through mine.
Use the H-T thread to go through the ECU and main relay checks JUST TO BE SURE. i know changing them out with working known ones rules them out... but follow the conversation me and Ron had with an actual meter (try not a test light like i had to for the explained reasons in that thread). You may find that a 12v power source is only reading a 2 or 6 or something keeping it from doing what it should. Then only an Ohm meter to check continuity between the ECU and the ends of the cabin harness will be all you have to worry about. If that all checks good... it can only be your engine harness (or something in the engine bay)
- Sun Jan 17, 2010 4:21 pm
#169040
i only extended the cabin harnees on the drivers side each wire one buy one and sodered them all and tested them by puting 12 volts threw them they were all fine. just the to motor harrness plugins on the drivers side if that helps ecus are good as i tested them in a friends car as the same for main relays so im pretty sure i has to be the motor harrness i am droping motor in today ill will let u know what goes on also thank u fro helping me its been a while now and nobody has a clue what going on as for the h tech thread i will go threw that again thanks
Rigginit wrote:I'm not really too sure on which lights did what. I don't remember which lights were on due to being focused on CEL as you say haha. sorry. The brake light shouldn't flicker as far as i know. It's not and indicator.
Which wires, if any, did you cut to extend/shorten?This includes cabin harness. Ill help you get through yours the same way i went through mine.
Use the H-T thread to go through the ECU and main relay checks JUST TO BE SURE. i know changing them out with working known ones rules them out... but follow the conversation me and Ron had with an actual meter (try not a test light like i had to for the explained reasons in that thread). You may find that a 12v power source is only reading a 2 or 6 or something keeping it from doing what it should. Then only an Ohm meter to check continuity between the ECU and the ends of the cabin harness will be all you have to worry about. If that all checks good... it can only be your engine harness (or something in the engine bay)
i only extended the cabin harnees on the drivers side each wire one buy one and sodered them all and tested them by puting 12 volts threw them they were all fine. just the to motor harrness plugins on the drivers side if that helps ecus are good as i tested them in a friends car as the same for main relays so im pretty sure i has to be the motor harrness i am droping motor in today ill will let u know what goes on also thank u fro helping me its been a while now and nobody has a clue what going on as for the h tech thread i will go threw that again thanks
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