Statistics: Posted by Punksz6 — Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:29 pm
]]>
]]>
Statistics: Posted by Uknterror — Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:27 am
]]>
Good work!
Statistics: Posted by bigJOE671 — Sun Jun 02, 2013 4:45 pm
]]>
Front brake setup:
- EG VTi 262mm hubs
- MG ZS 250 drilled&grooved MTEC discs
- Integra Type-R 17CL15VN Nissin calipers
- Machined 23T brackets
- Goodridge stainles steel braided brake lines
- Used OEM-brake pads (for testing purposes)
Then I dropped the car on its own paws, first time since last summer
I also assembled the interior little bit. Stupid to install it now, because I still need to weld, but I think I can get it covered so it wont get hurt
I don't like grey interior, but when its clean it doesnt look too bad. I managed to remove all the stains from the carpet. There is only 2 or 3 cig burns in a carpet.
The other side:
I don't understand why all the car owners must have some kind of cell phone stand that's ofc screwed to the dash? And why, oh why it has been bolted to dash with 6 screws? Someone must have owned very heavy phone.
I also buffed the clock bezel to remove all the scratches:
Rear end is almost assembled, so I could lower it to its own paws. I still need to do some cleaning and undersealing, but I have plenty of time with this.
Some pics before cleaning:
Statistics: Posted by HiTec — Sun Jun 02, 2013 4:32 pm
]]>
I was bored, so I figured to try those spare 282mm drilled & grooved discs to see how it would look like. It was a mistake.
I bought ITR front calipers
Â
Â
...and started to refurbish them:
Â
Â
New seals and slider rubbers:
Â
Â
Then I tried blue caliper paint, put I don't like it so I think I will change the color some day:
Â
Â
Â
And I couldn´t stop myself. I had to buy steel braided brake lines also:
Â
I also bought fog lights to this, because I thought that I want them later anyway, so why not to buy them now when its easier to install the wires?
Then, maybe the most stupid or useless buy ever, but its was cheap so why not?
Fog lights were used and I don't know why but the brackets didnt have any places where to screw them in the bumper? Luckily I have my EG8:s fog lights where I can draw the new pieces.
Some wire tuck pics:
Â
Â
Â
Then I installed the dash back. Not completely though, cause I still need to buy and wire up the Avital 3100 alarm.
Â
Â
Couple of days ago I was sitting in a garage and listening music while thinking how to do my EG8:s hybrid fenders. Before that I was watching this EG4:s right rear inner fender and thinking of how to rebuild it.
Â
Then it flashed in my mind like a rock in the russian sky month ago:
Â
Â
It has a exactly same shape as inner fender.
Â
I had those spare pieces from EG8:s front fenders laying around...Why to throw them away when you can use them to revive this?
Â
Â
Â
Little test fitting and shaping:
Â
Â
To be continued in some day...
Statistics: Posted by HiTec — Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:06 pm
]]>
]]>
Selling this shell (when its ready) is one option, because obviously it would be completely wrong to use this as a winterbeater after so much work. I dont even know why i started to do this too detailed. What car i´m driving in winters if this is never going to see snow anymore? I still have the same problem that i had before buying this car
Here´s a little update. Slow progress as always. I changed some bushings. PITA without press, but you can do it with the bench (what is the right word?) and i also cleaned and undersealed the wheel arches and other places:
Right rear wheel arch. I traced that how big repair pieces i need.:
I also removed the webasto sunroof, because im doing some modifications to it. I bought arduino NANO V3.0 to it. I´m adding sunroof automation features to it. I need to add some switches to it, so the sunrood knows its position (open, closed, spoiler.) I also thought that i could add a rain sensor to it. I still want it to look as much OEM as possible, so i will be using OEM-sunroof switch that my friend will be sending to me
Yesterday i chanced the front lca:s rear bushings. This is how you do it without press. Just saw it like this and use hammer to knock of the old tired bushing
Then i started to clean the left side of the rocker cover(?) Its not ready yet, cause i still need to remove some parts.
I installed the lights to ease up planning the wire tuck routes.
Those white markings are dates and what has been done in that date. This one says that that part of the car is cleaned, rust inspected and undersealed/waxed
Thanks for watching!
Statistics: Posted by HiTec — Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:32 am
]]>
Statistics: Posted by Copepsy — Sun Jan 06, 2013 2:35 pm
]]>
In summer, when i had a first careful look at this corner, it was like this:
So much bondo straight on rust:
I have to fabricate the whole inner fenders backside again. Because of that "playing with the bondo", the whole enclosure is full of wet mud and sand and it has rusted from inside. Also the enclosures outer metal is really crunchy, but fortunately the repair piece i have will have that part too
Then i started to remove the rear suspension parts. Things went too good until i needed to remove the trailing arms inner bolt. In this time the suspension sitted on top of the jack and only the RTA inner bolt was attached. When i was removing the inner bolt things go little difficult...
No help from WD-40, heat, tenderness. Bolt got loose about 2cm, until i heard a sharp sound and the bolt was spinning like a crazy. First i thought that it snapped, but then i realized that it was the counterpart that ripped of.
I needed to track down the teared of piece:
And there it was:
Father wanted to weld it back, so i focused on snapping pictures.
Then my ASR replica arrived.
I still had my genuine ASR gen1 brace spacers and subframe backing plates, so i thought that i could test the replica because they are dirt cheap if you buy them straight from china. Replicas have _REALLY_ bad backing plates and spacers. They look very dangerous, so dont use them! They are also thicker than genuine pieces, so the bolts wont screw in too good. Also the bolts are grade 8.8, you shouldnt use them. I got grade 12.8 hex´s from local shop, so i will be using those. The brace itself looks like a very nicely machined and anodized piece of aluminum, but ofc its some unknown aluminum. It will do its job in this winterbeater project when combined with genuine ASR install hardware
Statistics: Posted by HiTec — Sun Jan 06, 2013 12:33 pm
]]>
So, i was measuring the sides and i noticed that the rear left corner is "turning" inside whenyou follow it from the front to the back. I tested it comparing the side to the door. I cant confirm is this right, because i dont have door on another side of the car.
My explanations suck because of the bad english, so i took some pics to show what i mean:
When the door is closed, i took a straight piece of metal and put it beside the doors lower part to see if the straight side line continues from the door to the rear corner. .
If you look this pic, you see that the leveler is attached to the door, but when you follow the leveler to the rear there is a gap between the rear corner and the leveler.
I want to know if the straight sideline continues on the whole side! Can someone confirm that? I dont want any confirms from the cars that has been repaired from that particular part. I just want to weld my pieces perfectly to the factory look.
I´ve already done some other work. I fabricated some pieces, because i wasnt too happy about using the original puzzle metal sheets. It was pita to get the pieces right, but i think i got the job done pretty well.
Here is the front left, waiting for 262mm hubs and VTi lower arms:
And here is some arch test fitting
:
I also did new threads to my EG8:s old ASR pieces, that were destroyed by of the previous owner. I used the helicoil repair kit. Awesome tools. Absolutely must have! I´m testing the Skunk2 rep LCA:s and the ASR rep brace, mainly because they are dirt cheap. I´m not self destructive, so im not using the ASR copy backplates. Thats why i repaired the genuine ASR pieces.
Then i found some new parts in my carage. Leftovers from my SuperBlack.
Next i switched back to rear quarter.
Then i cut some pieces out that i dont need.
...And testfitted:
To get back to the original problem that i described on top of this post, please check the lower part line and also the side molding line. I mean that does rear corners side molding line continue straight when compared to doors side molding, or does the rear corner side molding start to turn inside from the back? Very hard to explain. Here is a bad example pictures:
Here is some pics taken from these fake Skunk2 LCA:s:
I´m gonna change the bushings to the genuine Skunk2. I know that they are crap too, but i think they will still be better than these copies.
Statistics: Posted by HiTec — Tue Dec 25, 2012 12:44 pm
]]>
So how i did it:
I used metal brush to broke the original paint, so annitrol had something to bite. Then i brushed as much rust away as possible and blocked the holes. Then i just put one bottle of Annitrol inside to a rocker and wait wait and wait.
Here is some pics from the way...
It still looks bad in these pictures, cause my plug dropped and annitrol leaked on the floor. But after another bottle and one day of waiting I got a shiny, fully rust free metal
I painted it with zinc and will waxoil it when i get my welding things done. I´m pissed cause i wasnt able to get pictures about the rust free rockers, cause my Galaxy S2 gives me "Camera Failed" notification when starting camera 
Now the rocker has Zinc on it, so its too late to take pics. But once i do the job to another side of the car, i will take pics to prove that this trick works 100% And here is fully cleaned and massed front wheel (arch? i somehow cant find the right word to it
)
Statistics: Posted by HiTec — Tue Dec 25, 2012 12:07 pm
]]>
]]>
]]>
Haven´t done much lately. Life has been such a circus so... But here is some little things that i´ve taken care of.
Because i want all the repairs to look like OEM one, i need to do insane amount of work with all little parts. I could´ve just weld a flat metal sheet to the inner fenders front part, but no.... I used the old rust free piece to do the new inner fender piece, because it had same shapes as the piece that needed to be replaced.
Fuel cap with new adhesive. Old glue that had absorbed the rust in left:
Here its glued and curing. The zinc is there just for the temporary rust protection. I will sand and bondo the fuel thingy flat, so there is no welding marks visible
Also changed bushings to PU ones:
Then i thought that i could grind of the inner fender part, so it would be easier to repair it and i could also see inside the rocker.
I was suprised how good the rocker panel was from the inside. Only surface rust. I will use metal brush to remove the original paint and surface rust and then use some annitrol to remove the rust to get a shiny metal. I will take pics once done.
The little parts...
I had to install my SuperBlacks old lowering set to this one
Then things just exploded and i realized that i was already started to do wire tuck.
Will continue some day
Statistics: Posted by HiTec — Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:03 pm
]]>