Civic EG

I'm not sure exactly what coils are on there because they were on it when the car was bought. Where should i measure to get an exact drop? also my upper control are which is skunk 2 is hitting the inner sheet metal and is starting to tear through, should a cut the sheet metal out for a spot to come through or install a bump guard of some sort. will new struts help or do i need new coils, struts and camber kit. i just ordered a pair of tubeular control ares because i bent my driver side. Sorry for so many questions but i/ve tired of eating through tires. Also i just replaced the inner tie rods and did a visual alignment, it's pretty straigh i'd guess, after i'm closs on camber and alignment then i'll take it in to lazer it in. thank you for any help!!

new member,
Joe
1995 coupe dx

You can measure from the bottom tread on the coils to the spring perch. Just adjust one side to the height you want and match the measurement on the other side.

A picture of the contact between the chassis and camber kit would help because I've never heard of that before. How low is the car? Too low does absolutely nothing but screw camber, tire wear and performance. Once you get a pic up we can help w/ what needs to be replaced.

car must be slammed to be hitting the inner fender with the upper arm.
The skunk 2 upper arms are bigger than stock which could also be why they are hitting the top of the fender.

They are just springs i don't really care for coilovers, i have them on a 95 accord i use to have and they were harsh to the car, i ajusted them many times too

There is no such thing as a visual alignment. W/out the proper equipment, whether that's a 20,000 computerized alignment machine, or some toe plates, tape measures, plumb bobs, fishing line, slip plates, and a level surface, you will not be able to get the alignment anywhere near close enough to straight to prevent tire wear. You could be a half inch out and not know it. Even if you used laser align tools for hanging picture frames; you wouldn't know to bounce and roll the suspension. Back your car out, pull it back in, measure it, and it will be different.

Camber should not be corrected to zero. At the very minimum, you should have -1 degree which is in fact, within spec. Most importantly your toe should be within spec if the car is driven on the street.

If your upper arms bottom out on the inside of your strut towers, your car is too low for any other reason than being a wanna-be Impala. If you cut clearance holes in your strut towers, your tires will rub the inside of your fender wells.

A coilover is just a strut with an adjustable spring perch. There is nothing inherent to coilovers to make them harsher than springs. The springs used on coilovers are fundamentally the same as those used on non-adjustable struts. You could easily choose a coilover that comes with a softer spring rate. Many brands offer "street" and "race" versions. Using the race version on a street car is not wise. It could be considered dangerous and stupid.

Changing the ride height does not soften the spring rate and make the ride quality less harsh.

I installed the same skunk2 parts at the preset adjustment and it came out great. I havent got it aligned yet because im waiting for bushings =(. BUT I did have clearance issues when compressing the suspension. The skunk2 part is much longer than the fatory arm. I had to beat a bit of fender in for it to have freedom of movement

thanks for the info i'm going to try to beat my fenders

Sorry, I mean wheel well >_< not fender!